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Bulgaria and the Black Sea

JCBeach

It was time for sunnier climes – and a quick credit card transaction was all it took to secure a week in Bulgaria.

Bulgaria has been up and coming as a holiday destination for a few years now, and with a large beer costing 50 pence at the Hotel Lira, it is easy to fall in love with a place.

Lev

Sunny Beach is on the eastern edge of Bulgaria, a country shaped like a sloppy, ragged oval that is hemmed in by Turkey, Romania, Serbia, Greece and North Macedonia, and courted on its eastern perimeter by the Black Sea.

The Black Sea itself is not black but typically ocean-coloured. It was first named by the ancient Greeks who called it Inhospitable Sea because it was difficult to navigate and hostile tribes inhabited the shores. After further development of the coast by the Greek colonists, it was soon renamed the Hospitable Sea. A suggestion to call it Really Lovely Sea was vetoed by all concerned.

It may be called the Black Sea because it appears dark whenever heavy storms pass over. High concentrations of hydrogen sulphide in the depths of the Black Sea will cause any sunken object to be covered in black sludge – possibly another reason for its name.

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The early evening light held a peculiarly opalescent quality, no doubt enhanced by those cheap beers.

Beach bars marked many a day in Sunny Beach. The sands were crammed with cheap beer-loving tourists and ardent sun-worshippers.

Sticking out from one end of Sunny Beach is the ancient town of Nessebar – a UNESCO World Heritage Site that was originally a Greek colony on the Thracian coast.

Nessebar

Speaking of Thracians, the celebrated gladiator Spartacus – a major player in the slave uprising against the Romans – was from these parts. He would always tell people who he was so there would be no doubt as to his identity.

Nessebar has some great restaurants, many conveniently lined up along the sea wall. The Shopska salad is not a restaurant but a traditional Bulgarian salad topped off with grated white brine cheese called sirene – a good starter before setting about succulent Dorada or Sea Bass, fresh and crunchy from the grill.

Grill

Hemmingways

A river boat trip was taken along the upper stream of the River Ropotamo, which glides through dense woodland. The upper stream is fresh water but a few kilometres downstream it soon turns into salt water.

The first stretch of river was rich in Kingfishers and Swallows. A pair of Spotted Flycatchers flitted about in the branches above, and sunbathing turtles hitched themselves up on partly-submerged logs. A thirsty Turtle Dove sipped cautiously along the low banks. Back on dry land, a pair of Swallows had made a mud nest above the entrance of the boathouse office, and four gobby little chicks were sparring for food.

Riverboat

BoatJC

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Humming-Bird Hawk Moth

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Sozopol by Nenko Lazarov

Similar to Nessebar but less crowded, Sozopol was another ancient Greek colony on the Black Sea specializing in beaches, wooden houses, crazy higgledy-piggledy narrow-ways and rubbly churches.

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 Sozopol by Bo&Ko

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St Ivan Island

Bone relics, claimed to be that of St John the Baptist, were discovered just off Sozopol on St Ivan Island in a tiny sandstone reliquary during excavations of an ancient monastery. They are on view at the SS Cyril and Methodius church in Sozopol, and radio carbon dating from Oxford University has confirmed that the small bone particles are right from the middle of the first century. Because they were found under the altar of the St John the Baptist Monastery, it suggests the founders would have brought relics of its patron saint to the party.

Another mildly interesting tidbit: The Cyrillic alphabet was an indirect result of the missionary work of St Cyril (your fella from the church above) who constructed a new script for Slavic, based on capital Greek letters.

Finally, Burgas was dropped into, the southern hub of the Black Sea Coast. The pedestrianized city centre may be a little too concretey for some tastes but there was ample evidence of a sprawling city garden and glimpses of a promising waterfront.

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The Fat Cat at Sunny Beach – that’s the bar, not the band!

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Some great product placement going on at The Fat Cat

There now follows a torrid series of photographs to illustrate the hardship, tribulations and personal sacrifices involved in holidaying abroad…JC

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Gez2

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Gez with Mr Whippy on top…

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“Wot’s goin on?”

Other things that occurred on July…

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It’s always good to see Spidey.

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The brilliant Father Teds were at Lightwoods House doing their thing – great to catch up!

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At the Old Joint Stock, a very entertaining tribute to Kate Bush:

This was a brilliant performance by Sarah-Louise Young who not only channeled her inner Bush magnificently but provided many laughs along the way with her quirky repertoire. Most reviews seem to have awarded this four stars and it would be churlish to suggest anything less.

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This exhibition was being wrought at the Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery to celebrate the founding members of Heavy Metal.

Plenty of metal memorabilia was on show where fans could play guitars, gawp at glittering stage costumes, and admire posters, tee-shirts and seminal album covers.

As is perfectly suitable, Black Sabbath music is piped throughout the galleries so the entire experience is backlit with soothing ballads such as War Pigs, Paranoid and Children of the Grave.